Recipe Credit: Dorie Greenspan
This cake is inspired by one that I first had in Paris more than twenty years ago. It’s based on the financier, a famous mini-cake which was created in that city in the nineteenth century by a pâtissier whose shop was near the stock exchange. Every afternoon, the financiers – the stockbrokers – would come in for a snack, and every afternoon they’d eat quickly and take special care not to get crumbs on their expensive ties. In an act that combined generosity with brilliance and great business sense, Lasne, the pastry chef, created a small cake that could be eaten out of hand in a few bites, neatly and without the risk of telltale crumbs. He made the cakes as rich as his clients and baked them in small molds that resembled gold ingots.
What distinguishes a financier is its buttery richness and its springy texture: the batter contains unbeaten egg whites. It usually has an equal amount of flour and ground nuts, often almonds or hazelnuts, but it can be made with just about any other nut. And because it is so basic, it’s easy to create variations.
In this version, I use the batter to make a slim cake run through with chopped chocolate. In France, this kind of cake is called gâteau tigré. For so many years, I thought the word tigré meant tiger and I could never understand why anyone would think that the cake, which was speckled not striped, should be named after a tiger. When I finally looked up the definition of tigré (something I should have done at the start), I discovered it can mean striped or mottled, more like a small tabby cat than a ferocious tiger.
The cake is delightful served plain – it makes a great snacking cake that any stockbroker could eat safely – but it’s fun to top it with rich chocolate ganache.
GOOD TO KNOW BEFORE YOU START
Oven: The recipe was tested in a conventional/non-fan oven.
Flour: In my recipes, 1 cup all-purpose flour equals 136 grams.
The butter: The cake can be made with butter that’s just melted or with butter that has been cooked until it’s browned. In French, this is called beurre noisette because the fragrance of the cooked butter is reminiscent of hazelnuts (noisettes). If you decide to use brown butter, start with an additional tablespoon (about 14 grams) of butter.
The egg whites: Eggs separate most easily when they’re cold, so go ahead and do that step early, then keep the whites at room temperature until you’re ready to bake – they should be used when they’re at room temperature.
The ganache: The ganache has a tad of corn syrup that adds sheen and viscosity. It also keeps the mixture from setting firmly. If you want a firmer topping, swirl the ganache over the cake and then chill the cake.
Makes 8 to 10 servings
For the Cake
Ingredients:
- 70 grams (5 tablespoons) unsalted butter, cut into chunks (see above)
- 150 grams (3/4 cup) sugar
- 68 grams (1/2 cup) all-purpose flour (see above)
- 1/2 teaspoon baking powder
- 1/4 teaspoon baking soda
- 1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt
- 70 grams (2/3 cup) almond flour
- 6 large egg whites, at room temperature, lightly whisked to break them up
- 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
- 142 grams (5 ounces) semisweet or bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped
Method:
Center a rack in the oven and preheat it to 350 degrees F. Butter a 9-inch round cake pan and dust the interior with flour or coat the pan with baker’s spray. Line the bottom with a circle of parchment paper.
The butter needs to be melted and then added to the batter while it’s still warm, so bring it just to a boil in a small saucepan or do this in the microwave. You can cook the butter a little longer, until it turns golden brown, if you’d like—browned butter’s flavor is a little toastier and nuttier (see above). Remove from the heat and keep the butter warm while you make the cake batter.
Working in a large bowl, whisk the sugar, flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt together until thoroughly blended. Add the almond flour and whisk—if it’s lumpy, use your fingers to break up the clumps. Switch to a flexible spatula and add the whites in three or four additions, stirring until the batter is smooth and flows off the spatula. Stir in the vanilla. Add the butter in three additions, folding and stirring until it is completely incorporated and you’ve got a smooth batter with a light sheen. Finally, stir in the chopped chocolate, blending well. Scrape the batter into the pan and use the spatula to smooth the top.
Bake for 37 to 40 minutes, or until the cake is golden brown, evenly risen and pulls away from the sides of the pan when gently prodded. A tester inserted into the center of the cake will come out clean. Transfer the pan to a rack and let the cake cool for 5 minutes, then run a table knife between the cake and the sides of the pan. Flip the cake over onto the rack, peel away the parchment and invert the cake onto another rack. Let the cake cool to room temperature right-side up.
For the ganache (optional; see above)
Ingredients:
- 80 ml (1/3 cup) heavy cream
- 1-1/2 teaspoons light corn syrup
- 85 grams (3 ounces) semisweet or bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped
- 48 grams (1/2 cup) sliced almonds, toasted
Method:
Put the cream and corn syrup in a small saucepan and bring just to a boil (or do this in the microwave). Turn off the heat, add the chocolate and stir the mixture gently until blended, thick and shiny. Pour the ganache over the cake and use an offset spatula or table knife to spread it across the top. I like to cover the top with the ganache and then, if some slides over the edges of the cake, I consider it a win. Scatter over the toasted almonds or arrange them in whatever fanciful pattern pleases you. You can leave the cake on the counter to let the ganache set a bit (it will never be really firm) or refrigerate it for about 15 minutes to let it set.
Storing: You can keep the ganache-topped cake, loosely covered, on the counter for up to 2 days; the unglazed cake will keep for about 4 days. Either cake can be refrigerated for 3 or 4 days. If you’ve chilled the cake, I think you’ll enjoy it more if you let it warm up a bit before serving. You can also freeze the cake, plain or glazed. If it’s glazed, freeze it unwrapped until firm and then wrap it well. The cake will keep in the freezer for up to 1 month; thaw in the wrapper and, if you’d like, puff a little heat from a hair dryer over the glaze to restore its shine.